Saturday, July 25, 2009

Cowabunga indeed!



One body surfer died there yesterday.

I have nightmares of attempting to bodysurf 12 footers at 15th Street in Newport Beach as a teenager. A near-death experience that day. But no way would I have attempted the Wedge. Look, but don't touch. But it is amazing to watch.

More Wedge photos from this week's swell here.

4 comments:

Nana2four said...

Rick, you just made my lil' California girl morning with that video~ Even though I am now an old grandmother- the years I lived in Fallbrook surfing at San Onofre or Fallbrook beach in Carlsbad are wonderful memories! Now off to church here in Goldsboro where it is hard to catch waves! :)
Thanks for the video!

Susan

ZazFamily said...

I knew you would find something to post here about our "Wedge".

Rick Lawrenson said...

Susan,
You need to come and visit us. We don't have The Wedge, but we do have the best surf on the East Coast.

Nana2four said...

Thanks Rick- Actually my husband and I hope to do that very soon! We have been following Nate's blog and yours since right when Tricia was so critically ill. Your posts about NHC are so engaging that everyone who reads it must want to come and visit! Now as to the surfing part- it has been a VERY long time, so we'll see! :)